Calculating Interest Rates with Microsoft Excel
The Rate function calculates the interest rate implicit in a set of loan or investment terms
given the number of periods (months, quarters, years or whatever), the payment per period, the present value, the future value, and, optionally, the type-of-annuity switch, and also optionally, an interest-rate guess.
If you set the type-of-annuity switch to 1, Excel assumes payments occur at the beginning
of the period, following the annuity due convention. If you set the annuity switch to 0 or
you omit the argument, Excel assumes payments occur at the end of the period following
the ordinary annuity convention.
The function uses the following syntax:
RATE (nper, pmt, pv, fv, type, guess)
As one example, suppose you want to calculate the implicit interest rate on a car lease for a $20,000 car that requires five years of $250-a-month payments (occurring as an annuity due) and also a
$15,000 balloon payment. To do this, assuming you want to start with a guess of 10%, you
can use the following formula:
=RATE(5*12,-250,20000,-15000,1)
The function returns the value .95%, which is a monthly interest rate of just less than 1%.
If you annualize this monthly rate by multiplying it by 12, you get an equivalent annual
interest rate of 11.41%.
As another example, suppose you want to calculate the implicit interest rate on a $300,000 real estate mortgage that requires thirty years of $2000-a-month payments (occurring as an ordinary annuity) but (thankfully) no balloon payment. To do this, assuming you want to start with a guess of 10%, you can use the following formula:
=RATE(30*12,-2000,300000)
The function returns the value .59%, which is a monthly interest rate of slightly more than half a percent.
If you annualize this monthly rate by multiplying it by 12, you get an equivalent annual
interest rate of 7.0203%.
A final point: Excel solves the RATE function iteratively starting with the guess argument you provide.
(If you don’t provide this optional argument, Excel uses 10%.) If Excel can’t solve the RATE argument within 20 attempts, it returns the #NUM! error. You can try a different guess argument, which may help because you’re telling Excel to begin its search from a different (hopefully closer) starting point.
CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6
Here is our opinion on choosing the right category of network cable:
Cat5 = If you plan on running at most 100 Mbps
Cat5e = If you plan on running at 1000 Mbps (1 Gbps)
Cat6 = If you plan on running at 1000 Mbps (1 Gbps) or more. Cat6 is better if you are in areas that have lots of interference like near power lines, lights, manufacturing equipment, or a long distance 1000 Mbps (Gigabit) run.
We advise that you run at least Cat5e or Cat6 cable in the walls
Cat5e are great for patch cables from the patch panel to the switch or from the computer to the wall jack
We very rarely use Cat5 cable anymore.
For most applications the CAT5E 350MHz network cables are best. They will run up to 1 Gig and are not as expensive as CAT 6 cables.
CAT 6 cables are great for “future proofing” your installation. They are rated to carry network speeds above 1000 Mbps (Gigabit).
CAT5E 100MHz are rated to only run up to 100Mbps networks but are inexpensive.
The above statements are the opinion of the Networkcablesonline.com and do not represent the solution for every situation. There are exceptions to these statements and a professional should be consulted prior to making a major network cabling decision. Please visit http://www.networkcablesonline.com for more information about CAT5, CAT5E, and CAT6 cables. [http://www.networkcablesonline.com/network-cables-c-59.html]
Car Audio Speakers: What you charge to know
Speaker Info…
Speaker systems are very important because they are the units that actually reproduce the sound from electrical energy. When I buy speakers, I only want to get high end. Here is what you need to know, and what to look for:
First, let’s start with the types of speakers that you’ll encounter in the car audio world.
Woofer: A large speaker designed to reproduce the lower frequencies of the audio spectrum.
Mid: A medium sized speaker designed to reproduce the middle frequencies of the audio spectrum.
Tweeter: A small sized speaker designed to reproduce the highest frequencies of the audio spectrum.
There are other variations of these speakers available as well.
You’ve certainly heard of “subwoofers” that reproduce the lowest of the audio frequencies. Essentially, these are the same thing as woofers, just bigger and with more power handling. The result? Thunderous bass! Like the gods sent it themselves…
You might also encounter “midbass” drivers. These are similar to woofers, but are usually used to bring more bass to the front soundstage. Often times, they are connected to crossover networks.
Another type of speaker you might encounter is called a “supertweeter”, and reproduces the highest frequencies in the audio spectrum.
Now, to shock you…
When you buy a “speaker”, you are actually buying a speaker system. AKA, more than one thing working together to produce a result. Let’s take a look at the types of speaker systems available…
TYPES OF SPEAKER SYSTEMS:
Basically, there are two types of speaker “systems” that exist.
1. “Coaxial”, “three way”, “full-range”, etc.
These speaker systems are designed to fit into the factory speaker location in your vehicle. They are often referred to as a “speaker”, but have more than one speaker, and will also contain a crossover. (coaxialspeak.jpg)
2. “Components”, “Seperates”
These speaker systems essentially take everything from the above speaker system, and break it up into parts. (componentspeak.jpg)
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE, AND WHY SHOULD I CARE?
To restate the obvious, one speaker system has all of its components in one package, and the other speaker system has all of its components in seperate packages. Both speakers do the exact same thing, and work in the exact same way, BUT COMPONENT SYSTEMS ARE BETTER.
Why?
I’ll tell you, hoss!
But before I do, you should know about the PROPERTIES OF HIGH FREQUENCIES. OK, it’s boring, so I’ll give you the executive summary: High frequencies are extremely narrow in their dispersion. (Whu huh?) In short, high frequencies (if we could see them) disperse like a string. Low frequencies, if we can see them disperse like a fan. So, since high frequencies don’t disperse very well, they need to be aimed at the ears, otherwise we won’t hear them! This is one of the advantages of component systems; they allow the tweeters to be aimed! Why do we want this? So when a singer hits an “s word”, or a cymbal crashes (both of these things happen in the higher frequencies), the sound will SPARKLE, rather than sound dead and flat.
PIX: tweeterdisperse.jpg, wooferdisperse.jpg
Another advantage of components: Their crossovers are usually higher quality units than you’ll find in coaxial or full-range speakers systems. This is good because you’ll introduce less distortion to your speakers, and be certain that your speakers are only playing the frequencies that they’re designed to play. The result? BETTER SOUND.
The last advantage of components is that they are GENERALLY designed for people who are more interested in sound quality. Because of this, components are generally higher in quality. When it comes to coaxials, even the most expensive models will be eclipsed by the quality of components in the same price range.
OK, OK. I know not everyone will consider component speaker systems. The truth is that they are harder to install properly and more expensive. Of course, if sound quality is your thing, you’ll go through the extra effort! Even car manufacturers are getting with the program these days, and include component speaker systems in their vehicles. Even my lowly Honda Civic has ‘em!
Crossovers:
So, you’ve probably noticed me using the word “crossover” above. What you may not know is what a crossover is, and what it does. Basically, a crossover takes a full spectrum audio signal, and breaks it up into different frequency “bands”, and sends the appropriate frequencies to the appropriate speakers. Here’s a picture! (xover.jpg)
If this explanation was too simple for you, you can check out my crossover page for more in depth info. Thanks!
OK, OK, OK. It’s time to get down to business, and look at speaker specifications, and how they affect you.
Size:
This is often expressed in inches (but sometimes metric for european brands), and refers to the MOUNTING of the speaker, not the actual speaker. For round speakers, the diameter is given such as 6.5″ or 5.25″. For oval speakers, the dimensions are given, such as 5×7″ or 6×9″.
Mounting Depth:
Basically, this tells you how deep the speaker is behind its mounting. Most speakers are about 3-4″ inches deep. This is important to know because you want to be sure that there is enough room behind the speaker to mount it properly.
Frequency Response:
This tells you what frequencies the speaker is capbale of reproducing. Most good speakers will go as low as 50hz, and all the way to 20,000hz (and beyond). However, if you’re planning to add subwoofers to your system, you don’t need your speakers to go much lower than 100hz. Also, it’s not essential for your speakers to go higher than 20,000hz since us lowly humans can’t hear anything in that frequency range.
Power handling:
This is the amount of power a speaker can handle without getting damaged. This is usually expressed in two ways: RMS and MAX. RMS is what the speaker can handle continuously, and the MAX rating tells what the speaker can handle in short bursts.
Impedence:
This is measured in Ohms, and tells you how much resistance the speaker has. Basically, the only thing useful about this spec is so you know what amp to hook your speakers up to. Most car speakers (with the exception of subwoofers) are 4 ohm speakers, and all auto amplifiers are built to handle a 4 ohm “load”. Most amps can also handle 2 ohm loads, but 2 ohm speakers are very rare. I would say this spec is much more important when it comes to subwoofers rather than speaker systems.
Sensitivty:
Measured in db, sensitivty essentially tells you how loud a speaker will be. When powering your speakers off of a low power amplifier, you want a more sensitive speaker. When powering your speakers off of a high power amplifier, the sensitivty rating is much less important. Also, more sensitive speakers tend to distort more easily.
A quick word about power handling, amps and distortion…
SPEAKERS DO NOT GET DESTROYED BY VOLUME, BUT BY DISTORTION! As such, it is your main goal to limit the amount of distortion that your speakers receive. Not only does this make your music sound better, but it also protects your speakers from premature damage.
THE EASIEST WAY TO DO THIS IS BY…
Buying as much power as you can afford, even if it exceeds the “power handling” spec for your speakers.
WHAT?!!! WHY??!!!
Because, because, because turning up the volume too high is what causes your amplifier to “clip”. This is the worst distortion that you can send to your speakers. It is caused by trying to get too much volume out of an amp that can’t provide it. SOOOO, you get a BIG, BAD amp with plenty of power. Now, when you turn up the volume high, instead of pushing the amp’s limits, you’re just starting to get the amp going. So, instead of clipping, the amp sends a nice clean signal to your speakers. No distortion, no damage, NO PROBLEM!
Now that I’ve educated you, it’s time to think about what you want from your speakers…
Car Audio Amplifier Info: Seriously Everything You’ll Ever Need To Know
Amp Smarts:
Amplifiers are devices that take a teeny tiny audio signal from a pre-amp, some power from your battery, and pass it on as a big big audio signal to drive speakers.
The most important piece of advice I can give to you is to buy lots of power. To get the cleanest sound, it is absolutely essential to buy as much power as you can afford.
Here are some terms that you’ll need to know when evaluating car audio amplifiers.
Watt: A watt is a measurment of power. Power is the ability to do work. In the case of amplifiers, the work is to move a speaker. Amplifiers come in all power ranges, from 20 watts per channel up to thousands per channel. When it comes to amplifiers, watts are described two ways:
RMS: An amp’s power rating might say: 75W RMS x 4 CH @ 4Ω 14.4V
This means that the amp is capable of 75 watts into 4 channels with 4 ohm speakers, and 14.4V of voltage. This amp is capable of providing that power if all of those conditions are met at all times. The truth is, even if you design your system to meet all of those conditions, it will not at all times. Speakers’ impedences (measured in ohms, or Ω) change constantly while operating. Amps don’t necessarilly put out the same power all of the time either, for example when a bass track is playing versus a much quieter track.
WHEN BUYING AN AMP, LOOK AT IT’S POWER RATING AS A MARKER FOR YOUR AMP’S CAPABILITY RATHER THAN WHAT IS LIKELY TO PUT OUT AT ALL TIMES.
However, I must also say that an amp’s RMS rating is the one piece of information to look for to determine an amp’s power.
CEA Compliant Power Output: This is (hopefully) going to become the industry standard for determining an amp’s power output. This allows you to accurately compare two amps to each other, because you know that they were tested under the same conditions. To know why this is a good thing, click here…
MAX:
Right under an amp’s RMS rating, you’ll see an amp’s “MAX” rating. It is often double the RMS rating. The MAX rating is pure junk. Never pay attention to the max rating because it only shows what the amp is capable of in a laboratory setting. That kind of environment cannot be reproduced in the auto, and therefore the rating is misleading. An amp’s max rating is proably about 50% more than the RMS. Never buy an amp based on it’s Max rating. Ok, and lastly, because this makes you look like a total jerk, never ever ever say your amp is a 1000 watt amp because it has a max 1000 watt sticker on it, and ESPECIALLY if you bought your amp at the swap meet. 1000 watt amps are BIG and HEAVY.
Anyway, in summation, never buy an amp based on it’s MAX rating.
CEA Compliant Power: (CEA=Consumer Electronics Association) This spec (if your amplifier includes it) is a new rating. The goals of this rating are to give a useful reference for amp comparison. In the “bad old days”, amp manufacturers could pretty much claim whatever power output they wanted without specifying the testing methods. The CEA rating changes that. The CEA compliant power output specifies what power output you can expect when the following criteria are met: 14.4V, 4 Ohm speaker load and 1% distortion. You can now fairly compare two amplifiers to each other because you know they were tested in the same manner. Make sense? No? OK, look at it this way: If an amp has a CEA compliant output power of 100 watts per channel, you know that the amp is essentially equal to another amp with the same CEA rating. HOWEVER, you cannot compare this amp to another amp that is rated at 100 watts/channel RMS.
I am a big fan of this rating. FINALLY, there is a uniform standard for amplifier power output ratings. If an amp doesn’t include this spec, then the manufacturer is probably trying to hide something.
Bridging: Many stereo and 4 channel amps allow you to “bridge”. What you do with bridging is combine two channels into one, or four channels into two. This allows you to allocate more power to a single speaker, like a subwoofer for example. This is a handy feature for someone who has a stereo amp lying around, but they want to use all of its power to drive a single speaker. There’s nothing wrong with bridging, and is often used for subwoofers.
Crossover: Many amps have a simple crossover built in. Basically, it will be a switch that will have three positions: high pass, low pass, off. High pass basically allows all of the higher frequencies to pass. This is handy if the amp is powering tweeters and mids. The low pass allows only the lower frequencies to be reproduced. This is handy if the amp is powering a subwoofer. Off means that all frequencies will be sent to the speaker.
Bass Boost: Some amps have a circuit that when switched on gives a boost to your bass. It is not essential, and I usually don’t use it in my own system.
Frequency Response: This specification tells you what frequencies that the amp responds to. Higher frequencies are treble, lower frequencies are bass. The human ear can perceive from 20hz to 20,000hz (aka 20khz). Most amps will reproduce this frequency band with ease. Some will go above and beyond. Don’t worry about that because usually CDs don’t contain data out of that range, and even if they did, you wouldn’t hear it! Some people talk about harmonics, and I don’t know if it’s true or not. But whateva. Read about this debate elsewhere.
Channel: Amps have channels that basically tell you how many loads it is built to drive. Loads=speakers, so a two channel amp will power two speakers.
Classes:
Different amps have different designs that all achieve the same thing (amplifying a musical signal), but achieve this in different ways. The way in which the amplifier is designed is refered to as its “class”. There are 4 major types of classes, and an occasional oddball. I don’t really know the technical differences between them, but it doesn’t matter. We’re just installing amps, not designing them!
A – Very good sound quality, very inefficient, uses boatloads of power, and wastes most of it in the form of heat.
B – Good sound quality, moderately efficient, uses a lot of power, wastes about half of it in the form of heat. Some “crossover distortion” present
A/B – Combination of classes A and B. At low volumes, uses the class A portion of the amp. At higher volumes, uses the class B portion of the amp.
D – So-so sound quality (but reproduces bass very well), highly efficient, uses minimal power, wastes very little of it.
Other classes: Whatever. They exist. I don’t know if they sound better. Your ears are the best judge.
THD: This stands for “total harmonic distortion”, but the D is all you have to pay attention to. Obviously, the lower this number, the better. You don’t want your amps producing distortion and sending it to your speakers! It causes noise and speaker damage. The experts say any THD rating below 0.1% is inaudible, meaning you can’t perceive it. But remember that distortion travels through all components, and is amplified by each one. So, having a low distortion amp, and other high distortion items in your system will reproduce distortion.
S/N Ratio: A Measure of how an amplifier silences backround noise. This spec is measured in db, and the HIGHER the s/n ratio, the cleaner your sound.
Speaker Level Inputs: This feature allows you to connect the amp to your system through speaker wires (instead of RCA cables). This feature is handy if you’re adding an amp to your factory stereo system.
Preamp Outputs: This feature allows you to connect an RCA cable to the amp to supply a second amp with the musical signal. This feature is handy if you want to add a second amp without running a cable all the way from your head unit to the amp. Also, it allows you to add an additional amp to a head unit that may have only one set of RCA pre-outs.
Remote bass control: This feature allows you to control the bass output of the amp without having to adjust it on the amp. You can mount the control wherever’s clever, and adjust the bass remotely.
HOW TO DETERMINE WHICH AMP IS BEST FOR YOUR SYSTEM:
How many channels is your system?
How to hook up those channels.
Features you want
Crossover:
Inputs:
speaker (hi level)
rca, pre-amp (lo level)
How many channels are you going to drive? We already discussed the ranges of stereo systems, so you need to determine how many speakers you’re driving. Say you want to build an intermediate system with 6 speakers. You figure you want to amplify all 6 of those with a “real” amp. You can go a few routes: You can buy a 6 channel amp, or a 5 channel amp, and power your whole system. That makes life easy if you want to keep installation clean and simple. You could also power your speakers with multiple amps: One mono, one 4-channel, you could even use three stereo amps. If you want to get really fancy, you could bi-amp your component speakers, bringing your amp count to 3, 4, and 5 amps!
One way that you can get creative with your installation is through bridging. If you want to power 2 or more subs on a stereo amp, you can bridge it, or combine the two channels into one. From there, you can wire your subs in parallel or series to obtain the proper ohm load. It’s an easy way to power multiple speakers on one amp.
To save money, you can always opt not to install an amp for the rear speakers. I often times just power them off of the head unit. If I am listening to music without rear passengers, I can just fade the head unit to the front, leaving me with the amplified front speakers.
Do you need an amp to have a crossover?
Crossovers come in handy when you are powering subwooers. Most amps can reproduce the entire range of human hearing. However, when we install subs, we only want them to reproduce bass. If the amp has a crossover, you can turn it on, and essentially tell the amp to only send bass to the subwoofers. Since subs can only reproduce bass, why have the amp waste energy sending the subwoofers frequecies it can’t reproduce? LUNACY I TELL YA!
Inputs
speaker: These are called high-level inputs because the signal is already highly amplified. Get an amp with high-level inputs if you are integrating an amp with a factory head unit.
rca: These are called low-level inputs because the signal is not highly amplified. These inputs are RCA style, and are preferred because they produce lower noise. This is the best option if you are using an aftermarket head unit.
So, now you’re really educated about amps. Don’t worry. You can thank us later!
-Honest AEB
Is a 6 Cylinder SUV Better Than a 4 Cylinder?
Buying a new car or a used one requires research first, you want to get the best vehicle for your money and when it comes to the size of the engine and how much power is needed in your sports utility vehicle, it is good to know the difference between a 6 cylinders vs. 4 cylinders. Some things to consider when buying a car is to look at the many factors that determine power, design and fuel efficiency of the engine.
The Year, Make and Model can affect how different engines will perform
It is important to note that a 4 cylinder engine has four pistons and usually are in smaller cars for instance a Toyota Tacoma is a compact pickup truck first generation models from 1995 to 2004, two wheel drive Tacoma’s came with the 2.4L and the 2.7L four cylinder engine, while 6 cylinder engines has six pistons and are usually found on most passenger cars, vans and small trucks such as found in GMC truck V6 engine produced in 1960 to 1978 in the Chevrolet 250 cid inline 6. Theoretically the more pistons would equal more horsepower.
Is a 6 cylinder V6 engine better than a 4 cylinder engine?
The inline 6 has been replaced by the V6 engine because of its compact size and high performance engine is why it’s the best choice if you’re looking for a high power engine while still maintaining a great fuel economy for your SUV. The 4 cylinder as a straight or inline is standard in most vehicles and is considered an economy engine. Its lower emissions and fuel efficiency makes it the engine of choice for those concerned about the impact on the environment. So to determine which engine is better will depend on what you are looking for in the next automobile you purchase though more cylinders equal more power when comparing different engines.
Advances in Technology for the Modern 4 cylinder
Many had thought that 4 cylinders were short on acceleration, this is changing with Japanese auto makers building high performance SUV’s such as in the Toyota sports utility, where you have the choice of purchasing the Highlander, Rav4 and the new 2010 Toyota 4runner has a 2.7 liter four cylinder engine that produces 157 horsepower, the only difference between a modern 4 cylinder compared to a V6 is the cost, due to the advancement in performance over the last decade.
Upcoming New Cars in India
This article aims at giving users an opportunity to quickly have a glance at the cars waiting to hit the Indian roads beginning March 2010. Let’s begin.
March 2010:
- The Toyota Corolla Altis priced at Rs 13,00,000 will be fighting hard with other premium diesel sedans like the Jetta, Laura and Sonata Emberra.
- The Ford Fiesta hatchback is a great car priced at Rs 6,50,000. The hatchback segment will have to careful about this fuel-efficient car which is every Indian driver’s dream.
- The cost of the Hyundai i30 is slightly high, Rs 7,50,000. But the power of the car is equally high.
- Volkswagen Phaeton, providing unrelenting standards of safety, comfort and dynamics, will be out with a tag of Rs 58,00,000.
- The Mahindra Renault Sandero is more handsome and more comfortable than the Logan. The price is just Rs 5,00,000.
- The Chevrolet Spark with a 3-cylinder 800cc engine is priced at Rs 3,00,000.
Next comes the Maruti SX4 diesel car costing its owners Rs 8,00,000.
- For SUV enthusiasts, the Volkswagen Tiguan will be here. It is called the Touareg’s younger brother with a price tag of Rs 25,00,000.
- The Toyota Yaris hatchback, priced at Rs 5,50,000, scores very high when it comes to looks, space and comfort.
April 2010:
- The Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4 bearing a tag of Rs 2.5 crore is all set to defeat the luxury car market.
May 2010:
- The Mercedes-Benz CLK-Class is a stylish convertible with a 3.5 litre engine. With the body of a coupe the car still hangs on to the headlight design of the older W280 C-class. The price tag, Rs 75,00,000.
- The Nissan Micra priced at Rs 4.5 lakh will be hitting the Indian roads this May.
June 2010:
- Mitsubishi is planning to come out with a small car, the Colt. The car, with a 74 bhp, 1.1 litre petrol engine has smart looks too. It is priced at Rs 4,50,000.
- The diesel variant of the Honda CR-V will be out this June. The fuel-efficient car will be priced at Rs 24,00,000.
- The Hyundai Genesis, priced at Rs 35,00,000 will help those Indians with a yearning for luxury, fulfill their dream.
- The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X with a 2-litre engine is extremely light because of the aluminum engine block below the hood. The car has a 4WD option and is priced at Rs 22,00,000.
- The mid-size crossover SUV, Hyundai Santa Fe, will come to India with a tag of Rs 24,00,000. The car is powered with a 2.7L V6, 148bhp diesel motor.
July 2010:
- The Volvo S60 priced at Rs 35,00,000 is simply smart. The car features a new collision warning technology with full auto brake.
- Along with the sedan, Volvo will also bring out an SUV. This car, again, is a real beauty and is priced at Rs 30 lakh.
- Skoda too wants to come up with a small car priced at around Rs 4 lakh. The car will first come to India and then will be unveiled in other parts of the world.
August 2010:
- Volkswagen UP, a smart and friendly car, will make sure your head remains up with pride. The vehicle is priced at Rs 3,50,000.
October 2010:
- The Skoda Fabia will be elongated a bit and brought to India as Skoda Fabia Combi. The car will be more spacious and comfortable than the previous version. It will bear a tag of Rs 10 lakh.
Another car with ample space and comfort will be the BMW X1. With a 6-cylinder engine, the car will be priced somewhere around Rs 30,00,000
November 2010:
- The Skoda Roomster comes with enough room for everyone. Brilliantly styled and with the quickness of an aeroplane, the price of the car is unknown.
December 2010:
- The Fiat Bravo with a 1.9L multijet engine has muscular exteriors. The interiors too are elegant and lustrous. It is priced at Rs 16,00,000.
- The Maruti Kizashi is the first all-wheel drive sedan in the D-segment with an advanced turbo 2.0L petrol engine and 6-speed transmission. This family car costs Rs 15,00,000.
- The ICML World Car is co-developing diesel and petrol versions of a 7-seater sports SUV and a 5-seater luxury car. It will be produced in Himachal.
January 2011:
- Three car makers are planning to capture the Nano’s market share. Bajaj, Renault and Nissan have come together to produce a small car in India and hope to export it to other nations as well. The price is believed to be Rs 1,00,000.
August 2011:
- The Volvo C70 has been turning heads everywhere and will soon come to India. It’s price would be Rs 35,00,000. The sleek and stylish car would be hard to resist.
Bentley too plans to get its Rs 2.1 crore Continental GT Speed into the Indian market. The classy coupe allows easy driving even at very high speeds. The car will give a maximum power of 600bhp.
The Compact SUV From Hyundai – the Tucson
Hyundai continues their bid as one of the Asian car manufacturers that pose a threat to American car companies in the US market. While they may not be as popular as Honda or Toyota in the American market, the Korea-based outfit is producing cars that can strongly compete in the global market against Toyota or Honda. This challenge is evident in their compact sport utility vehicle that is the Tucson. The Tucson is slated against Toyota’s RAV4 and Honda’s CR-V in the now declining SUV market. While interest in the sports utility vehicle segment is waning due to the upward surge of gas prices, Hyundai is still confident that their SUV will gain a good number of buyers.
Just like a Volvo, the Hyundai Tucson comes equipped with safety features though it still cannot compete with the Sweden-based outfit when it comes to safety features. Their list of safety features includes airbags, six of them and electronic stability control that prevents rollover by keeping the car’s suspension and other systems in check. This is one of the strong selling points of the car and another is their relatively lower price. And true to Hyundai’s confidence to the car they mass produced, they offer a five year or 60,000 mile warranty that is true to all trim packages of the vehicle. Additional safety features includes four-wheel anti-lock disc brakes and an electronic brake-force distribution system. Due to the safety features that the car employs, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) gave it its second highest rating which is “acceptable”.
Another thing that makes this Hyundai car a serious competition to the Toyota RAV4 and the CR-V is its high performance level. It has an all around great driving capability plus it has a responsive steering system that is coupled with the electronic stability control that provides great handling especially on tight turns. Its suspension system allows for a smooth ride keeping the car’s occupants comfortable even on long trips. The suspension system configuration also increased the car’s stability. The power that its engine emanates is adequate for even more than usual demand on the car when it comes to speed, acceleration and power on some tough road conditions.
The car’s drive system is configured to be an all wheel drive on some models, giving the Hyundai Tucson its great off-road capability that is quite respectable for a compact sport utility vehicle. The four-wheel drive configuration which is available on some trim packages gives better handing than the front-wheel drive models. The adaptive all-wheel drive system allows the directing of power to the rear wheels when traction on the rear is needed. There is also a switch that enables the driver to use the 50/50 torque split that comes in handy when trekking through snow or other similar road conditions. The Hyundai Tucson’s largest engine offered is a 2.7-liter V6 engine that can produce 173 horsepower. Its power can be checked efficiently by EBC pads that locks up to the Hyundai Tucson’s 11-inch diameter front rotors for maximum stopping power.
The newest model of the Hyundai Tucson for the 2007 year model offers three trim packages which will suit any costumer’s need in a sport utility vehicle. The entry level is the GLS model which comes with a 2.0-liter four-cylinder engine that comes with 140 horses. The next package is the SE model which comes equipped a V6 and a front-wheel drive or an all-wheel drive configuration. The top of the line Limited models comes with the aforementioned V6 engine that has a maximum output of 173 horsepower. The models are also available with either front or all-wheel drive configuration.
SUV Rollover Accidents
Sport-utility vehicles or SUV’s are popular among American drivers for their sleek designs, powerful towing capability, and ability to carry passengers comfortably. Despite these beneficial features, SUV’s are prone to tipping and rolling-over during accidents on the roadways. A majority of injuries involving SUV’s have been shown to occur during rollover following a crash.
The high instances of SUV rollover can be attributed to many factors, including:
o Most SUV’s feature a narrow track-width combined with a high center of gravity. The frames of most SUV’s are narrow (like cars) but are typically placed higher from the ground. It is recommended that automakers attempt to lower SUV chassis closer to the ground, but most designs feature a high center of gravity, increasing the chances of rollover.
o Many people believe that the more weight in a vehicle, the more stable it will be. Unfortunately, more weight in SUV’s often increases the risk of rollover. The increased passenger space in most SUV’s allows for more weight to be added to the vehicle, and increased weight on a high-center of gravity vehicle, means a higher likelihood of rolling-over.
o SUV’s were originally designed as off-road vehicles, and were initially designed with additional safety features to prevent injuries in the event of roll-overs. Roll-bars were often installed to help prevent the frame from crushing if the vehicle tipped or rolled. Commercial SUV’s often do not feature roll-bars and the lack of such safety features often make the vehicles dangerous to occupants inside.
Popular models of SUV’s include the Ford Explorer, Nissan X-Terra, Toyota 4 Runner, and the Honda Passport. Unfortunately, these models have also shown to be particularly susceptible to roll-over accidents resulting in injury or death. People who choose to drive an SUV should be aware of the rollover dangers in the event of an accident and should exercise caution while driving. It is recommended that drivers be aware of the wider turn-radius needed while driving an SUV, and should always be careful while braking or stopping suddenly.
Individuals who have been harmed in an auto accident involving an SUV may be eligible for personal injury compensation. If the accident was the result of neglect on the part of another individual, the injured parties may be able to expect some kind of resolution. For more information regarding SUV rollovers and personal injury, visit the website of the Madison personal injury lawyers of Habush Habush & Rottier, S.C.
Honda CRV 2012 Review
Honda CRV is one of the most successful compact crossover SUV’s of all time and has been a best seller for many years in it’s category. What makes it distinct from other vehicles is that the ingenious design that packs comfort, reliability, handling, styling and fuel efficiency into a compact form
The CRV was introduced in 1995 and was the first SUV from Honda. The most awaited 2012 model with a complete redesign from it’s previous version, is it’s fourth generation. Yes, the latest model has undergone a complete redesign with lots of added features. This model gives increasing importance for safety and space too. The major change to this vehicle could be the addition of third row of seat.
The main competitors are Toyota Rav4, Chevrolet Equinox and Ford Escape. Although CRV is costliest of all in this category, it still remains the best seller in the US.
Features and specifications
It is powered by a 2.4L 4 cylinder petrol engine which produces a maximum power of 180 bhp at 6800 rpm. It will also be available with a diesel heart in the Europe and subsequently be introduced in India. The valve train is 16- valve DOHC and comes with real time all wheel drive mechanism. It has got a five speed automatic transmission apart from the manual gearbox.
The safety features include standard airbags, ACE (Advanced Compatibility Engineering) body structure which takes care of the cross crash compatibility with different segments of vehicles such a sedan, SUV etc., Anti-lock braking system, Electronic brake distribution, Vehicle Stability Assist, Tyre pressure monitoring system and side-impact door beams.
Next, regarding the convenience features, the vehicle will be equipped with Honda satellite linked navigation system with voice recognition and rear view camera, bluetooth hands-free link, cruise control, power door and tailgate locks, tilt and telescopic steering column, steering wheel mounted audio controls, conversation mirror with sunglass holder and more.
Now, on the exterior features, it has a one-touch power moonroof with tilt feature, remote entry system, auto on/off multi-reflector halogen headlights, folding power slide mirrors etc.
When to expect it in the market?
This all new Honda CRV 2012 will be exhibited in the Los Angeles auto show scheduled this November. Soon after that, it is said to make debut in the western markets followed by other countries. I know you all are waiting to see it closely, but all I can say is that keep patience and wait for the official news from Honda.